India, one of the most populated countries in the world, is undoubtedly also one of the most fascinating. One immediately thinks of Gandhi, Mother Teresa, the Taj Mahal, the Ganges, the slums, etc.
India is also an incredibly diverse culture, extremely opposing social classes, an unparalleled history and, of course, completely flamboyant food!
When I announced to my entourage that I was leaving for India, everyone thought that I would not make it out alive because of the hotels of all kinds, the animals wandering in the streets and the tuk-tuk drivers who are faster than Michael Schumacher was at the wheel of his F1 through the thousands of cars, trucks, bicycles, carts and cows... Believe me: driving in Montreal after India is child's play!
My family's greatest fear was that I would not have enough to eat, and God knows how great this hunger is! In India, cows are sacred, so they are not eaten, and pigs are unclean because they ingest waste. The wealthiest people are almost all vegetarians and the only meats they can eat are chicken, lamb and mutton. I have been warned.
SPICE PARADISE
One thing that Indians control is taste. We have known for a long time that they love and know spices. Let us remember that Christopher Columbus discovered America thanks to them, because he was looking for a shorter route to India. And we all love BBQ just as much because of these famous spices.
The most commonly used spice blend, with which Indians prepare meats that will be cooked in the tandoor (this earthenware oven in the shape of a jar), is made up of coriander, chili, garlic, cassia turmeric, cumin, white and black pepper, fennel, mustard salt, ginger, cardamom and saffron. The result is a masala, which simply means a mixture since it is the most common in India. This masala prepares meats, but also vegetables, cheese and even tea.
On the Indian menu, paneer—which looks like a big chunk of cottage cheese—is an integral part of vegetarian meals grilled in the tandoor. It is also served with tomato sauce, stuffed into naan bread (so good despite the calories!) or with mint sauce (not my favorite version).
My favorite? Chicken cooked marinated in a mixture of oil, masala spices and cooked in the tandoor. Once it penetrates the flesh, the marinade gives an incredible taste and the intense heat of the tandoor makes the chicken succulent and extremely tender.
The famous naan bread is also cooked in the tandoor. The cooking technique is impressive. The Indian pitmaster will raise the oven temperature to the maximum before sticking the dough directly on the interior walls. The dough will thus be seized and swell perfectly in addition to slightly taking on the taste of the wood which serves as "combustion" at the bottom of the tandoor. He will then use a long rod with a hook to remove the naan from the extremely hot wall. It can then be served as is or added butter for even more taste (and calories!). For my part, I prefer it garnished with chicken, paneer, grilled vegetables, rice and lots of sauce! A recipe that is not very "Montignac", I admit, but, for the taste, the objective is achieved!
A COUNTRY OF CONTRASTS
I have eaten everything in India. The country is becoming more Westernized and the McDonald's, Subway, KFC, Dominos and Pizza Huts of this world are established in the largest cities. The big hotel chains are there too and, thanks to Air Miles points, I was able to sleep at the Hilton in Agra with a view of the Taj Mahal, my feet in the infinity pool while I ate a delicious filet mignon burger with bacon... Of course, I had checked with the waiter beforehand that the meat in the meatball was not "beef" but "Buffalo". I didn't dare tell him that it was pretty much the same thing to avoid offending his belief that the cow is sacred... In fact, for me too, beef is sacred: it is "damn" delicious cooked on the grill!
So, to get back to the story, while I was eating a "Buffalo" burger with "imported" pork bacon (as I said earlier, I wouldn't want to eat Indian pork, because its main food is "trash"), I could see a sacred cow sitting in the middle of the street and hundreds of cars driving around it without it even flinching. What contrasts!
The trip took me to different tables: from a friendly guesthouse belonging to a proud and welcoming superfamily serving typical Indian dishes to the Americanized dishes of a five-star hotel built just two months ago.
As I write this, I am on a train to Varhanasi, surrounded by Indians snoring loudly after gorging on potato pancakes and pea purée that I would have happily tried if there had been more of. India is full of intoxicating experiences, and the important thing is to enjoy every moment.