The time when men ruled the roost around the grill is (almost) over. Women are taking over the barbecue… and that’s a good thing!
By Elisabeth Massicolli
In 2018, saying that “men are predisposed to be better at grilling” is as ridiculous as saying that “women are predisposed to be better at washing dishes.” Everyone knows that’s not true—or at least, we hope so! But just because there are no genetic predispositions for these tasks doesn’t mean that there aren’t still inequalities around the grill… or in the distribution of household chores.
In 2018, saying that “men are predisposed to be better at grilling” is as ridiculous as saying that “women are predisposed to be better at washing dishes.” Everyone knows that’s not true—or at least, we hope so! But just because there are no genetic predispositions for these tasks doesn’t mean that there aren’t still inequalities around the grill… or in the distribution of household chores.
While women are in charge of cooking in 64% of Canadian households, it is men, at 76%, who take charge of the barbecue… even if their better halves are only 39% to think that they excel in the field! Why? The answer is quite simple. In the collective imagination, meat is associated with masculinity. We think (still today) of men as hunters, and women as gatherers. Cooking sausages on the grill would therefore be a form of return to the roots for men. According to human sciences specialist Claudia Schirrmeister, from the University of Duisburg-Essen in Germany, it would be less a way of cooking food to satisfy one's hunger or that of one's guests, but rather a ritual allowing the male to assert his virility. Nothing less!
Controlling the flames of a barbecue even gives men a sense of power. According to Schirrmeister, the grill has been elevated to the status of a male status symbol. "At a time when cooking is a real cult, positioning yourself as the best griller is worth at least as much in certain social groups as owning a new car," the specialist said in a recent interview with Terrafemina. It's no surprise, then, that politicians on the campaign trail often find themselves near a barbecue, tongs in hand, for a photo shoot where they can be seen preparing hamburgers for their potential voters! However, we would have a hard time seeing François Legault or
Donald Trump behind the stove, making strawberry-rhubarb scones…
Despite everything, the very masculine world of barbecue is slowly but surely breaking down barriers. Women are increasingly investing in the field, and daring to light their flame for this essential gastronomic art of beautiful summer days. Are we about to enter a new era of grilling… for women? We take a look at the question with three speakers who work at the heart of the industry.
“I know that being a woman—and a Canadian!—I’m more than a minority in this industry,” says Danielle Bennett, aka Diva Q, an internationally renowned barbecue pro (or pitmaster) now based in Florida. “I’ve done everything I can to make my mark. I’d even say I’ve worked twice as hard as most men.” The recipient of several prestigious culinary awards, Diva Q believes that in this boys’ club, as in many others, women have no room for error and must constantly prove that they deserve their success. “Today, I think I’ve achieved a pretty significant level of notoriety—my cookbook and cooking show have been seen all over the world! Because of that, my peers respect me. But it didn’t happen overnight: I was often told that I couldn’t do it.” It takes a lot of self-confidence not to give up when everyone expects you to fail."
Julie Perron, who has been teaching barbecue cooking techniques at BBQ Québec for a few years, agrees. “When I started, I felt like I had to justify myself and explain that ‘even if I were a woman,’ I had all the skills needed to teach. Over time, I gained confidence in my abilities and, today, I start my classes like any teacher would; by talking about barbecue, not my gender! And while I sometimes get a few suspicious looks or comments when I enter the room, I now know that my talent speaks for itself.”
Ariane Lefebvre, general manager at BBQ Québec since 2014, says without hesitation that she tries to encourage women to invest in the industry, as she did herself. At BBQ Québec, which has several women in its ranks, the opportunities for men and women are the same. “I would be deeply disappointed if one of my employees thought she was less deserving of her position here than a man. We advocate real diversity,” says Ariane, who quickly made her mark in the company. “I worked hard. Really. I left no room for improvisation, I was always more than prepared, and I managed to climb the ladder. My biggest fear was that people would attribute my success to my husband (Editor’s note: the company’s founder, Maxime Lavoie). Being recognized only as “the girlfriend of,” when I work like a pro, with so much passion… Not for me!”
BBQ Québec can boast of being on the road to parity, but that’s far from being the case everywhere else. “Now that I’m successful, some companies approach me for collaborations and, often, I have to decline,” says Diva Q. Why? “Because I know that they don’t hire any women, or almost none. Or that they have, in the past, treated me like less than nothing because of my gender. For me, integrity also means refusing to associate myself with brands that don’t promote the work of women… even at the expense of my bank account.”
The three speakers are unanimous; sexism is still very much present in the industry. "Just do the test and have a couple enter a barbecue store," says Diva Q. "The salesperson will always address the man first!" The barbecue pro also says she is completely against cooking competitions divided by gender. "Grilling is not a sport. It has everything to do with skills, talent, imagination... Not with physical strength! I don't understand why men and women are still separated in certain competitions. I know that I can measure up to any pitmaster!" Ariane, for her part, says that customers sometimes specifically ask to be served by men. "It's a shame, because our female advisors are experts just like our male advisors," she laments. "Luckily, it doesn't happen often." And food is subject to the same gendered treatment! "When I say I'm a barbecue teacher, people think that because I'm female, I cook healthy recipes, tofu or vegetables. When I take out my big cuts of meat, people are surprised!"
Despite the stereotypes that persist, women's interest in grilling is growing. Julie says that women now make up 10% of her classes. "Before, there were sometimes one or two women, who accompanied their husbands. Today, women participate in my classes alone, or in girl gangs! I think that's really cool." Diva Q notes that her workshops and conferences welcome nearly 30% women. "This is unheard of. And I think this is just the beginning! Women who like to cook realize that the barbecue is a very pleasant tool to use when you take the time to tame it," the barbecue star enthusiastically states.
One of the biggest obstacles to women learning how to grill? Fear. “We work with charcoal, propane… things that are considered dangerous,” says Diva Q. “That’s why I prefer wood chips; it’s more accessible. Women—and men!—are less intimidated by this technique.” Julie says the anxiety of messing up her recipes—and thus ruining her dinner party—is also very present. It’s important to remember, she says, that anything that can be cooked in the oven can also be cooked on the grill. “You don’t have to learn with big T-bones or ribs. You can start with small cuts of meat, side dishes or even desserts!”
Aside from fear, one of the factors that plays a role in women's disinterest in barbecue is also... time! "In most households, women still have more responsibilities, in the kitchen as well as elsewhere. It's quite possible that some of them don't want to add cooking chops to their already very long list of tasks," says Ariane, half-heartedly. "It's important to do it because you want to, and not because you have to. After all, grilling is supposed to be fun. Barbecue is a tool designed to bring people together, experiment, taste, and do good to those around you. No wonder guys are so quick to proclaim themselves the kings of the grill," she laughs.
One thing is certain; barbecue is for everyone. And to start enjoying it, you just have to get started. So, ladies, grab your barbecue tongs, get set…grill!